Historian traces Hanoi's food culture

Hanoi is know for its unique cuisine, says historian Nguyen Nha, whose 200-page culinary history of Hanoi was published on Oct. 6 as part of the celebrations of the capital city's 1,000th anniversary.
Hanoi is know for its unique cuisine, says historian Nguyen Nha, whose 200-page culinary history of Hanoi was published on Oct. 6 as part of the celebrations of the capital city's 1,000th anniversary.

With support from other historians and cultural experts, Doc Dao Am Thuc Thang Long-Hanoi (Unique Cuisine of Thang Long-Ha Noi) introduces about 400 dishes, both popular favourites and others which have nearly disappeared from local menus.

"I am on the way to tracing and preserving Vietnamese cultural values which are in danger of being buried in oblivion," Nha said. "I hope my project helps to preserve and introduce recipes of Hanoi which are the pride of Hanoians and of the Vietnamese people."

The historian is planning additional volumes about the cuisine of Hue and Sai Gon.

After reading the book, Prof Tran Van Khe, who said he first came to Hanoi in 1938 and has visited every year since 1976, confessed that it taught him much he didn't know about the special dishes of Hanoi.

"The recipes are the cultural heritage of the Vietnamese." said Khe. Preserving them was as important as preserving traditional forms of music or water puppetry, he added.

Nha began teaching at the HCM City Teachers College in 1992 and began using his own money to travel to Hanoi to record images about the city for use as teaching materials. The effort resulted in a documentary about the capital city, which he completed several years ago.

"Several historical sites in Hanoi disappeared after I shot the film," Nha said, noting that the video would soon be screened in Hanoi schools./.

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