As Tet draws near, Trang Cat villagers enter their main harvesting season of dong leaves (Stachyphrynium placentarium) – used as a wrapping for various food items in Vietnamese cuisine, especially chung cake (glutinous square rice cake) – the traditional and indispensable Vietnamese dish during Tet. Chung cake is a traditional Vietnamese cake which is made from glutinous rice, mung bean, pork and other ingredients. Its origin is told by the legend of Lang Lieu, a prince of the sixth Hung King, who became Hung King 's successor thanks to his creation of Chung cake and Giay cake, which symbolise the Earth and the Sky respectively. (Photo: Minh Son/Vietnam+)
Trang Cat Village is famous among many villages and provinces in the northern region thanks to its 600-year history of planting “dong” leaves. Since a few weeks before Tet (New Year holiday), Trang Cat villagers have become busier harvesting “dong” leaves to provide for traders. “Dong” leaves are sold not only during Tet but all round year for wrapping “banh chung” and “gio cha” (Vietnamese traditional ham). Leaves dedicated to the Lunar New Year are carefully taken care of to ensure quality and color. The harvesting season lasts from the tenth day of the last lunar month to near the end of that lunar month. (Photo: Minh Son/Vietnam+)
Trang Cat dong leaves are very popular for their beautiful natural colour, as well as long, soft, big and round leaves. Wrapping banh chung with these leaves will give an eye-catching green colour to the cake. When boiled, it will also create a soft attractive aroma. Dong leaf is an indispensable part when wrapping banh chung. Dong leaves and giang strings have to be washed carefully in order to preserve the taste of the cake. Giang strings may be soaked in salt water or steamed so that they can become flexible enough for wrapping. Pork side is preferred for Chung cake because its fatty flavour associates well with the glutinous rice and bean, developing a special taste (Photo: Minh Son/Vietnam+)
The farming of Dong leaves has been practiced by the people in Trang Cat since the village was founded and passed down from generation to generation. About 90% of the villagers plant the tree. There were ups and downs, but it seems that today’s modern wrappers are still unable to replace the simple rustic leaves of the countryside. Thanks to the fertility of the land next to Day River, Trang Cat is ideal for planting a variety of fruit trees such as oranges, grapefruit, vegetables and especially Dong trees. There was a time when many households were solely dedicated to growing oranges, but in recent years they have returned to Dong trees. (Photo: Minh Son/Vietnam+)
Planted once, Dong trees can be harvested ‘forever’ as when the leaves are cut, the new ones will grow. There was a time when many households were solely dedicated to growing oranges, but in recent years they have returned to Dong trees, which they found more suitable for the soil quality, higher productivity and more stable income as they could harvest it all year round. Moreover, farmers could combine dong growing with rice and vegetable cultivation in the same field. In fact, Dong is regarded as the secondary tree compared to rice and fruit but it is becoming the ‘main’ one as it yields better income. (Photo: Minh Son/Vietnam+)
Dong leaves from Trang Cat Village are favored for the being soft as well as having catchy color and odor, thanks to the local soil physical properties, a mix of soil and sand and underground water providing good condition to ensure the ideal leaf quality. In addition to Banh Chung, Trang Cat’s Dong leaves are also used to wrap Banh Day (round cake made of sticky rice flour), pork sausage, and gifts, not only during Tet but also all year round. Wrapping banh chung with these leaves will give an eye-catching green colour to the cake. When boiled, it will also create a soft attractive aroma. (Photo: Minh Son/Vietnam+)
There are about 250 households in the village planting some 25 hectares of Dong tree in total, according to Chairman of the People's Committee of Kim An commune, Mr. Doan Van Huynh. In the last two years, the Dong planting area in the village has increased by nearly ten hectares. The Dong leaves of Trang Cat have been exported to other countries for overseas Vietnamese people to wrap Banh Chung on the occasion of Tet. Chung cake is a traditional Vietnamese cake which is made from glutinous rice, mung bean, pork and other ingredients. Its origin is told by the legend of Lang Lieu, a prince of the sixth Hung King, who became Hung King 's successor. (Photo: Minh Son/Vietnam+)
In fact, Dong is regarded as the "secondary" tree compared to rice and fruit but it is becoming the “main” one as it yields better income. Thanks to the fertility of the land next to Day River, Trang Cat is ideal for planting a variety of fruit trees such as oranges, grapefruit, vegetables and especially Dong trees. There was a time when many households were solely dedicated to growing oranges, but in recent years they have returned to Dong trees, which they found more suitable for the soil quality, higher productivity and more stable income as they could harvest it all year round. Moreover, if could combine dong growing with rice and vegetable cultivation in the same field. (Photo: Minh Son/Vietnam+)
‘Dong’ leaves, particularly those grown in Trang Cat village, stand out from other types of leaves in that they offer a fresh natural green to the cake’s rice after being boiled and an irresistible fragrance, in addition to enriching its taste.The village’s “dong” leaves are highly sought for their high quality and smooth texture. The leaves usually measure some 25-35cm in width and 50-60cm in length, which is a perfect fit for the ‘banh chung’ frame. After being wrapped in the leaves and tied with lat (thin strips from a bamboo-like plant), banh chung, made from glutinous rice, green beans and fatty pork and usually served with pickled vegetables, are put in a large container and boiled for several hours. (Photo: Minh Son/Vietnam+)
Planting the leaves does not take much effort, just branching and then planting, tending, weeding waiting for the harvest date. The special thing that makes Trang Cat dong leaf brand is because, Trang Cat is located in the alluvial area of Day river, fertile soil, beautiful big leaves, evenly. Besides the temperate climate, the leaves grow very well. Dong leaf is considered the soul of Trang Cat village, the cultural essence of the nation. This leaf has become a trademark and pride when talking about the homeland. The people here always hope that the green of the leaves will never disappear when Tet comes and spring comes. (Photo: Minh Son/Vietnam+)
VNA