Con Dao Prison – Crime hell on earth set on tropical islands

Vietnam is well-known for its heroic revolutions against foreign invaders over the years. Jails dating back to the French colonial and anti-American war periods have become top tourist destinations for those who want to understand the country and its history. Con Dao Prison on the island of Con Dao, some 100 kilometres south of mainland Vietnam’s southern coast is one with lots of painful memories, once known as “the living hell on earth.” The island’s­­ remoteness made it an ideal penal colony, with the prison population averaging 2,000 at any one time during the French control, but rising steadily to some 10,000 in the early 1970s. (Photo: VietnamPlus)

Isolated from the mainland, the Con Dao island are one of the best places to visit in Vietnam. Located off the southern province of Ba Ria – Vung Tau coast, and 230 kilometres from Ho Chi Minh City, Con Dao consists of 16 islands and islets. The place is very popular for its unspoiled natural beauty with white sandy beaches and crystal-clear blue water. Con Dao has been voted one of the best “secret” and most “appealing” islands on the earth by Australian Lonely Planet and US Travel and Leisure magazines. Although it seems to be the heaven on the earth, Con Son, the largest island of the archipelago, was once living hell for tens of thousands of prisoners under the French colonial rule and the US-backed Sai Gon regime. (Photo: VietnamPlus)

Located off the southern province of Ba Ria – Vung Tau coast, and 230 kilometres from Ho Chi Minh City, Con Dao consists of 16 islands and islets. There remains a system of jails on Con Son (also known as Con Lon) island, the largest island of the archipelago. Dubbed "The Hell on Earth" at one time, the prison system was built in 1861 by the French to jail and torture Vietnamese freedom fighters during the colonial times and then used by US forces for similar purposes. The prison was closed after the fall of the Sai Gon government on April 30, 1975 and is now a popular historical site among Vietnamese citizens. (Photo: VietnamPlus)

The jail system was built by the French to imprison those considered a threat to the colonial regime. The most famous parts of this system are the “tiger cages”, where prisoners suffered the harshest solitary confinement. There are 120 solitary, dirty confinement rooms, measuring some 5sq.m each, in which prisoners were shackled and made to lie on a damp cement floor. They also suffered horrific torture. There was no bed in the cell and no roof above, only metal bars so wardens could easily watch every single move by the prisoners. The jailers often tortured the prisoners using wooden sticks or by pouring lime powder on them. (Photo: VietnamPlus)

The most famous parts of this system are the “tiger cages”. Each cell measures some 5sq.m, where several prisoners were kept. There was no bed in the cell and no roof above, only metal bars so wardens could easily watch every single move by the prisoners. The jailers often tortured the prisoners using wooden sticks or by pouring lime powder on them. Another form of torture was a “sun bath” or “rain bath” where the prisoners were forced to stay naked in a cage without a roof, exposing them to the harsh sunshine or the torrential rain. Over 20,000 people died on this island during the hundred-year existence of the prison. (Photo: VietnamPlus)

Inside the prison, there are the remnants of a cistern storing cows' dung and water used to torture prisoners on Con Dao island. The prisoners would be submerged in the waste until worms developed in their bodies. They would suffer from eternal pain until death. The cistern was built in 1930 to torture communist soldiers in secret. The jail system includes stations named Phu Son, Phu Hai, Phu Tuong, Phu Tho, Phu An, Phu Phong, Phu Hung, and areas for special prisoners like Tiger Cages and Cow Cages. Over 100 years, some 20,000 revolutionaries and other patriots were jailed, tortured or killed at the site, which is now a Special National Relic Site. (Photo: VietnamPlus)

In “tiger cages,” also found at Phu Quoc Prison, prisoners had to lay in a humiliating dog-like position for the entire day as the scorching sun beamed down on them. They were stripped naked and shackled at the ankles with thick iron bars. Instead of ceilings, the tiger cages had criss-crossed bars on top. From a second floor, prison guards could prod and beat the prisoners below with long rods. They would throw a mixture of water and lime on the prisoners, causing severe skin burns. Prisoners were also given as little sustenance as possible to live – causing them to become thin, wasted, and weak. (Photo: VietnamPlus)

Another form of torture was a “sun bath” or “rain bath” where the prisoners were forced to stay naked in a cage without a roof, exposing them to the harsh sunshine or the torrential rain. The tiger cages were constructed away from the main prison to hide the appalling conditions from public view. It wasn’t until 1970 that the true horrors of the Con Dao Prison became known after it was featured in an article in Life magazine. In 1975, the prison closed its doors for good after over 100 years of bloodshed. Over 20,000 people died on this island during the hundred-year existence of the prison. (Photo: VietnamPlus)

The “tiger cages” area had 120 solitary, dirty confinement rooms, measuring some 5sq.m each, in which prisoners were shackled and made to lie on a damp cement floor. They also suffered horrific torture. The tiger cages were constructed away from the main prison to hide the appalling conditions from public view. It wasn’t until 1970 that the true horrors of the Con Dao Prison became known after it was featured in an article in Life magazine. In 1975, the prison closed its doors for good after over 100 years of bloodshed. Over 20,000 people died on this island during the hundred-year existence of the prison. (Photo: VietnamPlus)

Today, the horrors of the prison are explorable in the form of a prison museum. Visitors can find lifelike depictions of life at Con Dao in the form of human-sized dolls and recreated prison cells. Con Dao Museum offers graphic details of the conditions prisoners faced, including depictions of the torture and beatings of prisoners, as well as information on notable prisoners, including Le Hong Phong, Nguyen Van Cu, Le Duan, Nguyen Van Linh, Pham Van Dong and Ton Duc Thang. It is a way Vietnamese people keep alive the memories of those who fought for the national freedom and independence. (Photo: VietnamPlus)

Photo: VietnamPlus

The prison was mainly for political prisoners and resistance fighters before 1975. Many Party leaders were imprisoned on Con Dao, including Le Hong Phong (1902 – 1942) – the second leader of the Communist Party of Vietnam (CPV) – and his successors Nguyen Van Cu (1912 – 1941), Le Duan (1907 – 1986) and Nguyen Van Linh (1915 – 1998). Comrade Pham Van Dong (1906 – 2000), who served as the Prime Minister for more than 30 years until 1987; President Ton Duc Thang (1888 – 1980); and Le Duc Tho (1911 – 1990) who led the Democratic Republic of Vietnam delegation to the Paris Peace Conference in 1973 were also among inmates here. (Photo: VietnamPlus)

The Con Dao Museum offers graphic details into the conditions prisoners faced, including depictions of the torture and beatings of prisoners, as well as information on notable prisoners, including Le Hong Phong, Nguyen Van Cu, Le Duan, Nguyen Van Linh, Pham Van Dong and Ton Duc Thang. It is a way Vietnamese people keep alive the memories of those who fought for the national freedom and independence. The museum also focuses on the environmental importance of the island, which in 1993 saw the establishment of the 20,000-hectare Con Dao National Park, some 14,000 hectares of which are a marine protected area. (Photo: VietnamPlus)

Con Dao has been voted one of the best “secret” and most “appealing” islands on the earth by Australian Lonely Planet and US Travel and Leisure magazines. Once a “hell on earth” for thousands of political prisoners before 1975, Con Dao has now turned into a “tourist heaven” well known for deserted beaches with white sand, deep blue water and colourful coral reefs. The Con Dao National Park, a Ramsar site of wetlands of international importance, is home to 1,077 species of vascular plants and 155 species of fauna. Many bird species on Con Dao cannot be found anywhere else in Vietnam, such as the red-billed tropicbird, masked booby, and pied imperial pigeon. (Photo: VietnamPlus)

In the 20-hectare Hang Duong Cemetery on Con Dao stands the grave of Vo Thi Sau, a Vietnamese political prisoner who arrived at Con Dao after attempting to assassinate a canton chief. Previously, she had killed two French soldiers with a hand grenade. The second attempt was not successful and she was promptly executed at the age of just 18. Between 10 p.m. and midnight every day a sacred vigil takes place in front of Sau’s grave with offerings of candles, incense, flowers, fruits, combs and mirrors. Vietnamese people believe midnight is the holiest time to visit the graves of loved ones, especially those who died young and unmarried. Prayers to such souls are believed to be highly efficacious, so hordes of devotees flock to Sau’s grave at midnight. (Photo: VietnamPlus)

The grave of Le Hong Phong (1902 – 1942) – the second leader of the Communist Party of Vietnam (CPV) in the Hang Duong Cemetery. In addition to Phong, many Party leaders were imprisoned on Con Dao, including his successors Nguyen Van Cu (1912 – 1941), Le Duan (1907 – 1986) and Nguyen Van Linh (1915 – 1998). Comrade Pham Van Dong (1906 – 2000), who served as Prime Minister for more than 30 years until 1987; President Ton Duc Thang (1888 – 1980); and Le Duc Tho (1911 – 1990) who led the Democratic Republic of Vietnam delegation to the Paris Peace Conference in 1973 were also among inmates here. (Photo: VietnamPlus)