Hanoi (VNA) – At Milan Fashion Week 2025, held in early March, Phan Dang Hoang unveiled his collection ZigZag, inspired by do paper (a paper made from the inner bark of the do tree and traditionally produced in many villages in Vietnam). His work created significant buzz, especially among those who love Vietnamese fashion and culture.
Returning from Italy, designer Phan Dang Hoang spoke with VietnamPlus about his journey of bringing Vietnamese materials to international fashion.
– At 16, you were known as a “portrait sketching prodigy” and honoured by the US magazine Art People. At that time, did you ever think you would become a painter rather than a fashion designer?
Designer Phan Dang Hoang: I’ve loved fashion since I was a child. I see painting as a natural talent and portrait sketching as a hobby, so I never thought of becoming a painter or dreamed of pursuing that path.
In reality, both fields revolve around aesthetics and beauty. Art, in whatever form, ultimately aims to create beauty, serve the public, and enrich life.
Portrait sketching and fashion design are both forms of art and complement each other. For example, being good at drawing helps me sketch fashion ideas more vividly, effectively expressing the concepts I envision for a collection.
Shapes and colors are points of intersection between painting and fashion, forming a strong bond between the two.
– Who inspired you to pursue art, and especially fashion?
Designer Phan Dang Hoang: My grandfather was the one who inspired my artistic journey. He was a member of the Vietnam Fine Arts Association and spent many years creating art.
Throughout his career, he made significant contributions and won several awards. His passion and achievements significantly influenced me and have been a major source of motivation in my career.
– You had an opportunity to study in Europe. How did European art influence your fashion design style?
Designer Phan Dang Hoang: My time studying in Europe was a special period filled with unforgettable experiences. Visiting museums and attending international courses gave me deeper insights into European art and shaped my contemporary design mindset, aligning it with the global market.
Five years of living and studying in Europe had a substantial impact on my creative journey. From the instructors and curriculum to the living environment – all followed European standards – which naturally left a certain imprint on my design style.
– When you decided to return to Vietnam to build your own brand, what made you confident that your designs would stand out in the increasingly vibrant Vietnamese fashion scene?
Designer Phan Dang Hoang: I believe everyone has their own journey and unique “DNA” in design. What matters most to me is expressing my identity, doing what I love, and creating works with a personal imprint.
Part of my design style is influenced by Vietnamese cultural materials, and that could become a distinctive feature in my work. Perhaps this combination allows people to recognise my designs as a very clear personal mark – a distinct “DNA” of Phan Dang Hoang’s fashion style.
– Your collections inspired by Vietnamese culture have resonated with fashion lovers, especially as they’ve been showcased internationally to promote Vietnamese culture. What made you choose this path?
Designer Phan Dang Hoang: Living and studying abroad deepened my appreciation for the cultural roots I was raised with. That’s why I strive to preserve these elements in my designs. They are not merely memories, but lasting historical imprints that shape Vietnam’s identity.
As a Vietnamese designer, I take immense pride in my cultural heritage. Culture is the foundation of a nation, and through my creations, I hope that whenever I appear on the international stage, people will instantly recognise me as a designer from Vietnam.
– Could you briefly introduce some of your collections inspired by Vietnamese culture?
Designer Phan Dang Hoang: I have two collections inspired by Vietnamese ceramics: Ceramics for women and FARAMIC for men.
The distinctive feature of FARAMIC lies in its use of water transfer printing on traditional Vietnamese silk (dui fabric). Meanwhile, Ceramics employs a range of intricate techniques, combining various surface treatments and meticulous detailing through multiple stages of production.
Most recently, the ZigZag collection draws inspiration from Dong Ho folk paintings and poonah paper – a unique handmade material that holds not only cultural significance but also embodies artistic craftsmanship. Each sheet of poonah paper is a one-of-a-kind creation; no two are ever the same – much like each individual. Additionally, poonah paper is extremely durable and long-lasting, which speaks to the sustainable values I always aim to incorporate into my fashion work.
– In your view, what are the challenges in combining traditional cultural elements with contemporary fashion?
Designer Phan Dang Hoang: Merging traditional culture with modern fashion presents a valuable opportunity for designers to celebrate and preserve the essence of national identity. It is also a way to honour Vietnam’s rich history, laying the groundwork for future generations to understand, appreciate, and continue these cultural legacies.
The challenge, however, lies in maintaining the soul and spirit of the culture while ensuring the designs remain modern and aligned with current fashion trends. These creations must not appear outdated or overly nostalgic. Instead, they require innovation and creativity – preserving authenticity while staying fresh and relevant to today’s fashion scene.
In 2024, I was honoured to receive the “Outstanding Young Face in Culture” award at the VTV Awards by Vietnam Television. This recognition means a great deal to me; it reflects my ongoing journey to bring Vietnamese culture to the international stage. The award acknowledges years of dedication – a long process of working, researching, engaging in artistic exchanges, and immersing myself in culture. It’s not something achieved overnight, but the result of a continuous journey.
Looking ahead, I hope to collaborate with traditional artisans on future collections. First and foremost, I believe I must do my work to the best of my ability so that people can see a young Vietnamese designer striving to preserve and elevate the most beautiful values of our cultural heritage.
– Thank you for your sharing.
