Traditional costumes show marks Vietnam Cultural Heritage Day

On the occasion of the Vietnam Cultural Heritage Day (November 23), many independent units specialising in researching traditional costumes of Vietnamese people demonstrate their simulated products. The fashion show of such costumes on November 22 in downtown Hanoi was part of an event co-hosted by the Vietnam Federation of UNESCO Associations (VFUA), the UNESCO Centre for Supporting Vietnamese Arts Preservation and Development, and the Business Forum Magazine. The costumes were designed by Dai Viet Quan Old Costume, Dai Viet Phong Hoa, Da La Xuoc Phuc, Dong Phong, V Styles, and Z and N. Most of the designers are young who do serious research and remake old costumes, accessories and weapons. (Photo: VietnamPlus)

Two costumes representing those dating back to the Tran Dynasty (1225-1400). Accessories are used, with the male model carrying a sword on his shoulder and the female showing a wooden card of orders. The dynasty was founded when Emperor Tran Thai Tong ascended to the throne after his uncle Tran Thu Do orchestrated an overthrow of the Ly dynasty. The period was considered a golden age in the Vietnamese language, arts, and culture. At the show, many spontaneous research units on old Vietnamese clothes and weapons participated, including the Dai Viet Quan Old Costume, Dai Viet Phong Hoa, Da La Xuoc Phuc, Dong Phong, V Styles, and Z and N. (Photo: VietnamPlus)

A set of clothes worn for commoners under the last Vietnamese feudal dynasty, the Nguyen (1802 - 1945). Unlike those of other periods such as the Ly, Le, and Tran, the costumes from the Nguyen Dynasty are mostly remade by participating research groups. The Nguyen Dynasty costumes on display have relatively high accuracy because there are still many sources of accessible materials available for study. Most of the designers are young who do serious research and remake ancient costumes, accessories and weapons. They have gained income from offering their costumes and objects for rent serving demand from young customers, particularly students. (Photo: VietnamPlus)

A model in a dark green python robe worn by the mandarin. The set of clothes was among the 100 traditional costumes of various periods throughout history on display at the event, held to celebrate the 17th anniversary of Vietnam Cultural Heritage Day (November 23, 2005-2022). It was co-hosted by the Vietnam Federation of UNESCO Associations (VFUA), the UNESCO Centre for Supporting Vietnamese Arts Preservation and Development, and the Business Forum Magazine. Tran Huy Khoi, the initiator of Da La Xuoc Phuc, said this event is a good chance for him to advertise cultural products as well as efforts by researchers like him to remake old costumes. (Photo: VietnamPlus)

The costume in the picture is modeled after a statue of Nguyen Thi Thanh (Dharma name: Dieu Tinh), a woman who lived in the Revival Le Dynasty (1533-1789). The statue, taken at the Dai Bi pagoda, Gia Lam district, Hanoi, was built in honour of her donations to the pagoda in her lifetime. Statues like this found at pagodas are a great source of materials for research groups of old Vietnamese costumes to gather information and form ideas of what people wore in the past. Members of the groups are primarily young who do serious study to remake ancient costumes, accessories and weapons. (Photo: VietnamPlus)

In addition to documents in texts, the reference sources of these spontaneous research groups are old drawings, photographs, and stone statues at temples and pagodas. In fact, as Vietnam has experienced many wars, many documents were burned, robbed, or looted. Therefore, it is difficult to access them nowadays, and the remake of traditional costumes from many historical periods has been done with many uncertain details for relatively well restored pieces of clothes and accessories. Tran Huy Khoi, the initiator of Da La Xuoc Phuc, said this event is a good chance for him to advertise cultural products as well as efforts by researchers like him to remake old costumes. (Photo: VietnamPlus)

As Vietnam has experienced long period of wars, many documents were burned, robbed, or looted. Therefore, it is difficult to access them nowadays, and the remake of traditional costumes from many historical periods has been done with many uncertain details for relatively well restored pieces of clothes and accessories. Ancient Vietnamese costumes made with sophisticated sewing, embroidering and decoration techniques. The reference sources of spontaneous research groups are mainly texts, old drawings, photographs, and stone statues at temples and pagodas. Members of the groups are primarily young who do serious study to remake ancient costumes, accessories and weapons. Renting their remade costumes and objects earns them an income, serving demand from young customers, particularly students. (Photo: VietnamPlus)

A female model in ‘ao tu than’ (four-flap dress). It was once the dress of peasant women in Vietnam’s northern region, which explained why it was often made with plain fabric in dark colours, except when it was to be worn on special occasions such as festivals or weddings. Regardless of its many different forms, the basic ao tu than consists of a flowing outer tunic; a long skirt; a halter top; and a silk sash used as a belt. The tunic is open at the front, like a jacket, splits into two flaps at the waist – a full flap in the back and the two others in the front which are not sewn together but can be tied together or left dangling. (Photo: VietnamPlus)

A female model in ‘ao ngu than’ (five-flap dress) and a ‘quai thao’ hat. ‘Ao ngu than’ is a type of dress with a high, straight and square neck, symbolising the integrity of the gentleman. It has five buttons made of metal, jade, or wood. Since its appearance, it had undergone hundreds of years of development. This type of dress did not distinguish between classes, genders, and ages. Meanwhile, the large, flat, round hat was worn by women, as an accessory to finer garments, as opposed to the more functional clothes associated with farm work. Until the early 20th century, this hat was popular in the northern region. (Photo: VietnamPlus)

During each period throughout history, the Vietnamese made costumes that bear the cultural imprint of that era. With the development of film and historical art projects and the fondness of many young people, those traditional Vietnamese costumes have found their way back into the modern society. There are now many sites where people share articles and discussions about ancient Vietnamese clothing. The movement to learn about and wear ancient costumes has spread very quickly. As a result, many young Vietnamese people are more familiar with wearing ao ngu than, Nhat Binh costume (square-collared garb) and ao Giao Linh (cross-collared robe) during festivals, traditional Tet holidays, and daily life. (Photo: VietnamPlus)

Ancient Vietnamese costumes made with sophisticated sewing, embroidering and decoration techniques have held the interest of many young Vietnamese. There are now many sites where people share articles and discussions about Vietnamese traditional clothing. The movement to learn about and wear traditional costumes has spread very quickly. As a result, young people are more familiar with wearing ao ngu than, Nhat Binh costume (square-collared garb) and ao Giao Linh (cross-collared robe) during festivals, traditional Tet holidays, and daily life. As the trend grows, older people have also shown increasing interest in traditional clothing, helping them be revitalised and well-adapted to modern lifestyles. (Photo: VietnamPlus)

The neck and flap are of the most recognisable features to distinguishing types of Vietnamese traditional costumes. In the photo is a costume with a round neck, which is generally referred to as the ‘vien linh’ in Vietnamese. During each period throughout history, the Vietnamese made costumes that bear the cultural imprint of that era. With the development of film and historical art projects and the fondness of many young people, those traditional Vietnamese costumes have found their way back into modern society. On the occasion of Vietnam Cultural Heritage Day (November 23), many independent units specialising in researching ancient attire of Vietnamese people had the opportunity to demonstrate their simulated products on stage at the fashion show in downtown Hanoi. (Photo: VietnamPlus)

In addition to the round neck type called vien linh, the dress with two flaps crossing each other was named ‘giao linh’. In the picture is a costume adapted from the statue of Mr. Vu Mien, a man living in the Le Dynasty (1428 - 1789), the longest-ruling dynasty in Vietnam. The statue belongs to the Vu family in the northern province of Bac Ninh, known for its rich and long-standing culture. Ao giao linh, a historically significant Han Chinese clothing, was a robe with a wrap collar closing to the right side. During the Nguyen dynasty, it was later replaced with the ao ngu than and became obsolete. (Photo: VietnamPlus)

A model wears ao ngu than for men under the Nguyen Dynasty (1802 - 1945). Ao ngu than (five-flap dress) is a type of dress with a high, straight and square neck, symbolising the integrity of the gentleman. It has 5 buttons made of metal, jade, or wood. As the name suggests, the dress is sewn from five large sized fabrics, of which two were used to form the front body, two made into the back body, and the last to cover one side of the body, creating discretion for those wearing it. Since its coming into existence, the costume had undergone decades of development. This type of dress did not distinguish between classs, genders, and ages. (Photo: VietnamPlus)

Ao nhat binh from the last Vietnamese feudal dynasty, the Nguyen (1802 - 1945). It was a kind of dress traditional to Vietnam and previously worn by female members of the royal family on special occasions. The costume had two flaps on the front part which form a rectangle on the chest when being worn. In the Nguyen Dynasty, the nhat binh of the empresses, princesses, and concubines were sewn and embroidered by royal artisans. The making of them was elaborate and meticulous, taking months. After 1945, the dress became very popular with Hue women who wore them in their wedding ceremonies. From a costume only for aristocratic women in the royal court, it has become a kind of common clothing, for everyone (Photo: VietnamPlus)